Well, I'm back in the blogoshed just in time to wish you both a deliriously excessive Christmas and a new year that will doubtlessly pan out much better than I expect.
Unfortunately, the possums holidayed in the shed during my absence and my books are all over the place, festooned in little possump-turdlettes.
Sorry the Turkish posts stopped so suddenly - never got near a computer after Ankara. Lots of driving (a dangerous business for a newbie in Turkey), lots of casually lighting up while other people were eating (which remained a voluptuous thrill each and every time), lots of raki (tricky stuff - after your fifth lolly-water you do feel tipsy, but perhaps unprepared to continue getting drunker for hours after you regain the hotel), lots of biting cold (as I stood on the Aegean shore, facing the crystal waters around Lesbos, I couldn't help but think the snow on my brow rather out of place), and all the tea in two Chinas.
Do not go to Turkey without stopping - for a long time - in Urgup in Capadocia and Bergama (old Pergamon) near the Aegean. I've a list of rubber-necking must-do's for anyone thinking of going to Turkey (I find it hard to think of going anywhere else these days), but I'll leave the tourist babble off these pages - it'd interfere too starkly with the note of elegant dismalism I try to strike here.
Anyway, the loinfruit are happy with their presents this year, so a contented silent night is all about, and I'm bound for the grandmother of all catch-up blogsurfs.